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Tomato Sauce with Onion and Butter

fresh, ripe tomatoes, blanched, peeled, and roughly chopped (or 2 cups canned imported Italian plum tomatoes, cut up, with their juice)

butter

medium onion, peeled and cut in half

Kosher salt

to 1 1/2 pounds pasta, cooked

Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese for serving

Put the tomatoes in a saucepan. Add the butter, onion, and salt. Cook, uncovered, at a very slow but steady simmer for 45 minutes, or until the fat floats free from the tomato. Stir occasionally, mashing any large pieces of tomato with the back of a wooden spoon. Taste and adjust for salt. Discard the onion, then toss the sauce with pasta. Serve with grated Parmesan.