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Coconut husks (and charcoal made from those husks) burn hot and clean, without imparting lots of smoky flavor into food. They are great for grilling fresh, meaty fish like tuna, which is quickly seared and only cooked to rare, and the charcoal is the fuel of choice in Fiji. Find coconut charcoal (such as Kratos) at hardware stores or online, or substitute hardwood lump charcoal.

Grilled Tuna With Chile-lime Mango Salad

medium shallot, unpeeled

medium-size dried red chile (such as Tianjin), seeds removed, if desired

finely chopped lemongrass

superfine sugar

fresh lime juice (from 2 limes)

fish sauce

(8-oz.) sushi-grade tuna steak (about 1 1/2 inch thick)

canola oil, plus more for grill

fine sea salt

large green mango (about 1 lb.), peeled and cut into 2 1/2-x 1/4-inch matchsticks

packed fresh rau ram

(Vietnamese coriander) or cilantro leaves

lime leaves, thinly sliced, or 1/2 tsp.

lime zest

medium-size red Fresno chile, thinly sliced (about 2 Tbsp.)

Open bottom vent of a charcoal grill completely. Light charcoal chimney starter filled with coconut charcoal briquettes. When briquettes are covered with gray ash, pour them onto bottom grate of grill. Adjust vents as needed to maintain an internal temperature of 300°F. Place shallot and dried red chile on unoiled grates. Grill, covered, turning occasionally, until chile is bright red and crisp, 6 to 8 minutes, remove from grill. Continue grilling shallot until very soft, about 20 minutes more. Remove from grill; let cool 10 minutes. Peel shallot; discard skins. Adjust grill vents to increase temperature to 475°F. Remove top grate, and coat with oil: place on grill.

Mash chopped lemongrass with a mortar and pestle until finely ground. Add sugar and grilled chile; mash until well combined. Add peeled shallot; mash until mixture forms a mostly smooth paste. Transfer mixture to a small bowl; stir in lime juice and fish sauce. Set aside.

Rub tuna with oil: sprinkle with salt. Place on oiled grates. Grill at 475°F. uncovered, until tuna is cooked to a depth of 1/4 inch but middle is still red, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a cutting board; cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices.

Place mango, rau ram leaves, lime leaves, and Fresno chile slices in a large bowl. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons lemon-grass dressing, and toss to coat. Divide salad among 4 plates; top evenly with tuna slices. Drizzle about 2 teaspoons lemongrass dressing over each serving of tuna; reserve remaining dressing for another use.