Boston Baked Beans

Pick over beans, cover with cold water, and soak overnight. In the morning drain, cover with fresh water, bring to a boil very slowly, then simmer until the skins burst (“which is best determined,” wrote Fannie Farmer, “by taking a few beans on the tip of a spoon and blowing on them, when skins will burst if sufficiently cooked.” Miss Farmer adds that beans tested this way, “must, of course, be thrown away”).

Drain beans. Scald the salt pork, which should be well streaked with lean, by letting it stand in the boiling water for 5 to 10 minutes. Cut off 2 thin slices, one to place in the bottom of pot, the other to be cut into bits. Score rind of the first piece with a sharp knife.

Mix dry mustard, salt, black pepper, and molasses. Alternate the layers of beans in the pot with the molasses mixture and the bits of pork. If you use an onion, bury it in the middle. When the bean pot is full, cover with the large lid, and bake all day a minimum of 6 to 8 hours) in a 250° oven. Check from time to time and add boiling water if needed. Uncover pot during last hour of baking so that rind will be brown and crisp.